GUCCI: behind Michele’s maximalism

• Michele’s reign was filled with success among which iconic collaborations with sports brands The North Face and Adidas
• Where Valentino focused heavily on RTW and leather goods, GUCCI delivered 35% more accessories than the overall luxury market, will this persist with De Sarno at the creative helm?
• The GUCCI Marmont shoulder bag is on average 18% cheaper across markets compared to top luxury brands’ Valentino and Prada’s similar bags

GUCCI under Michele has been known for its eclectic and maximalist aesthetic, which has drawn both praise and criticism from fashion critics and consumers. Nonetheless, he was able to deliver iconic products and unforgettable collaborations. The collection with Adidas was first unveiled in September 2021 and earned it the title of hottest brand in Lyst Index’s quarterly report.

Prior to that, GUCCI collaborated with The North Face. The most prominent category in the collaboration was outerwear, with the most expensive piece priced at 2.980€. Although Adidas and GUCCI didn’t release a large outerwear collection, Retviews’ data show a significant price difference between the two collaborations. The Adidas’ Zipped jacket has a higher entry price compared to The North Face’s Windbreaker jacket, suggesting that the latter collaboration is targeting a broader consumer base, where the maximum price for the collection is 50% cheaper than the highest price point in the GUCCI x Adidas collaboration.

One factor that may influence GUCCI's future direction is the identity of Michele's successor. Sabato De Sarno, former associate of Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, has been announced as the new creative director. This raises questions about how the brand will move away from maximalism toward a more classic approach inspired by Valentino.

Within high-end luxury, leather goods usually represent a major portion of assortments. For GUCCI, this is not the case. Looking at the European market, Retviews data indicate that accessories account for a significant 42% share of GUCCI’s assortment, largely driven by its jewelry collection. The relaunch of GUCCI Beauty also reinforced the brand’s focus on inclusivity. However, compared to competitors such as Valentino, GUCCI still maintains a smaller share of leather goods and footwear. Will De Sarno’s arrival drive growth in these categories?

Marketplaces have also become essential for expanding a brand’s digital footprint. Retviews' data show that Valentino’s trending pumps are 9% cheaper on MyTheresa than on its own e-commerce site or Farfetch. Conversely, GUCCI loafers are 3% cheaper on Farfetch than on MyTheresa.

With Retviews’ real-time data, brands such as GUCCI and Valentino can closely monitor pricing and distribution strategies across channels while preserving their brand image.

Since its creation in 1921, GUCCI has sealed its position as a leading luxury brand with a rich history of iconic bags. Among the most recognizable items are the Jackie and the Bamboo bags, both of which have stood the test of time and are still heavily coveted by fashion enthusiasts. However, in recent years, the GUCCI Marmont shoulder bag has emerged as a signature style within the House since its debut on the 2016 fall runways. Its elegant design, coupled with the GG logo, has made it a popular choice among buyers.

Retviews data reveals that high-end luxury players tend to maintain a higher price point in China compared to the US and the European market. Despite this, GUCCI's GG Marmont still has the lowest price positioning in comparison to similar shoulder bags from other luxury brands such as Valentino and Prada, standing at a relatively affordable price point of $ 2,120 in the European market. The GUCCI GG Marmont also has the smallest price difference between the European and Chinese market. This price positioning could be attributed to the brand’s leading position for Chinese shoppers’ ranking of “brands they consider purchasing from when buying luxury bags” as indicated by Business of Fashion. Not only that, but its pricing structure also allows the brand to reach a wider consumer base.

Valentino also had its share of iconic moments, the latest of which went viral with the Pink PP Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccoli used a single hue of hot pink for the brand’s entire assortment.

During his reign, Alessandro Michele was known for the extravagance of GUCCI’s collections. As shown through Retviews’ data, GUCCI used 23% less neutral colors such as black, grey, beige, and white than Valentino. Along with a large array of colors, graphic prints and maximalism were prominent within GUCCI’s ready-to-wear assortment.

Maximalism has taken the fashion industry by storm. The trend consists of bold prints and patterns, excessive layering, audacious silhouettes, and bright colors among others. As seen on Retviews, GUCCI under Michele offered larger shares of flamboyant clothing than its counterparts.

Alessandro Michele’s maximalist vision has been previously seen on the GUCCI Fall/Winter 2020 collection which featured a selection of vibrant colors and mixed textures such as ruffled collars, lace details, and embroidered accents. The GUCCI Spring/Summer 2020 collection was similarly maximalist, featuring colorful florals, complex beading, and bold geometric patterns.

In fact, the brand offers on average 95% more extravagant clothing than Prada and Bottega Veneta, who opted for a more minimalist, classic approach in their assortment within the past seasons.

It remains to be seen how De Sarno will blend these two approaches and whether he will incorporate elements of Valentino's classic, elegant demeanor into GUCCI's collections. However, it's worth noting that both brands share a commitment to quality and luxury, so there may be some natural synergies to be explored. Overall, the departure of Michele and the appointment of De Sarno mark a significant shift for GUCCI. While there may be some uncertainty about the brand's future direction, it's clear that the company has made a strategic decision to bring in fresh talent to continue the legacy of one of the most iconic names in fashion.

Is your brand looking to keep an eye on competitors’ insights and track pricing strategies, the state of assortments, colors, and international strategies in real-time? Retviews, the AI-powered competitive intelligence platform has proven to be the perfect ally for today’s leading luxury brands in staying on top of competitors’ data. With the industry shifting to AI to carry out manual processes, you don’t want to miss out.