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What’s to come with a new creative director?
Use the Retviews platform to benchmark your offer against your competitors
Alessandro Michele’s reign as GUCCI’s creative director ended in November 2022. As the Italian designer has been able to revive the brand, maintaining its status as a leading luxury label, one question remains: what does the future hold for GUCCI?
GUCCI under Michele has been known for its eclectic and maximalist aesthetic, which has drawn both praise and criticism from fashion critics and consumers. Nonetheless, he was able to deliver iconic products and unforgettable collaborations. The collection with Adidas was first unveiled in September 2021 and earned it the title of hottest brand in Lyst Index’s quarterly report.
Prior to that, GUCCI collaborated with The North Face. The most prominent category in the collaboration was outerwear, with the most expensive piece priced at 2.980€. Although Adidas and GUCCI didn’t release a large outerwear collection, Retviews’ data show a significant price difference between the two collaborations. The Adidas’ Zipped jacket has a higher entry price compared to The North Face’s Windbreaker jacket, suggesting that the latter collaboration is targeting a broader consumer base, where the maximum price for the collection is 50% cheaper that the highest price point in the GUCCI x Adidas collaboration.
One factor that may influence GUCCI's future direction is the identity of Michele's successor. Sabato De Sarno, a former associate of Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, has been announced as the new creative director. This move has raised the question of how the directorial shuffle will move the brand away from maximalism and into a more classic approach, taking inspiration from Valentino’s style, which De Sarno contributed to.
Within high-end luxury brands’ collections, leather goods generally constitute one of the largest portions of their overall assortment. For GUCCI, this is not the case at all. So, what exactly does the Italian luxury leader’s assortment look like?
Looking at the European market, Retviews data indicates that, accessories make up a significant 42% share of GUCCI’s total assortment, more prominent than that of the average luxury market. The increased share of accessories is primarily attributed to the brand’s large jewelry collection. Furthermore, Michele relaunched the brand’s beauty division and made inclusivity a priority in GUCCI Beauty, with a range of shades designed to work across a variety of skin tones. Nonetheless, the brand is still behind its luxury competitors regarding its leather goods assortment. Valentino has a more extensive share of leather goods as well as footwear, with the viral Garavani Tan-Go pump, which has increased in popularity within this past year. Will De Sarno’s addition to GUCCI push an increase in leather goods and footwear?
Marketplaces have emerged as a significant channel for brands to reach a broader audience, especially in the fast-growing European online fashion market. In this context, having a presence on marketplaces has become critical for brands to expand their digital footprint and consumer base. Retviews' data shows that Valentino's trending pumps are 9% cheaper on the marketplace MyTheresa than on its own e-commerce website or Farfetch.
On the contrary, GUCCI loafers are priced 3% cheaper on the Farfetch marketplace compared to MyTheresa. The availability of real-time data through platforms like Retviews enables brands such as GUCCI and Valentino to monitor their sales channels closely and ensure that their brand image remains intact.
Since its creation in 1921, GUCCI has sealed its position as a leading luxury brand with a rich history of iconic bags. Among the most recognizable items are the Jackie and the Bamboo bags, both of which have stood the test of time and are still heavily coveted by fashion enthusiasts. However, in recent years, the GUCCI Marmont shoulder bag has emerged as a signature style within the House since its debut on the 2016 fall runways. Its elegant design, coupled with the GG logo, has made it a popular choice among buyers.
Retviews data reveals that high-end luxury players tend to maintain a higher price point in China compared to the US and the European market. Despite this, GUCCI's GG Marmont still has the lowest price positioning in comparison to similar shoulder bags from other luxury brands such as Valentino and Prada, standing at a relatively affordable price point of $ 2,120 in the European market. The GUCCI GG Marmont also has the smallest price difference between the European and Chinese market. This price positioning could be attributed to the brand’s leading position for Chinese shoppers’ ranking of “brands they consider purchasing from when buying luxury bags” as indicated by Business of Fashion. Not only that, but its pricing structure also allows the brand to reach a wider consumer base.
Valentino also had its share of iconic moments, the latest of which went viral with the Pink PP Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccoli used a single hue of hot pink for the brand’s entire assortment.
During his reign, Alessandro Michele was known for the extravagance of GUCCI’s collections. As shown through Retviews’ data, GUCCI used 23% less neutral colors such as black, grey, beige, and white than Valentino. Along with a large array of colors, graphic prints and maximalism were prominent within GUCCI’s ready-to-wear assortment.
Maximalism has taken the fashion industry by storm. The trend consists of bold prints and patterns, excessive layering, audacious silhouettes, and bright colors among others. As seen on Retviews, GUCCI under Michele offered larger shares of flamboyant clothing than its counterparts. Alessandro Michele’s maximalist vision has been previously seen on the GUCCI Fall/Winter 2020 collection which featured a selection of vibrant colors and mixed textures such as ruffled collars, lace details, and embroidered accents. The GUCCI Spring/Summer 2020 collection was similarly maximalist, featuring colorful florals, complex beading, and bold geometric patterns. In fact, the brand offers on average 95% more extravagant clothing than Prada and Bottega Veneta, who opted for a more minimalist, classic approach in their assortment within the past seasons.
It remains to be seen how De Sarno will blend these two approaches and whether he will incorporate elements of Valentino's classic, elegant demeanor into GUCCI's collections. However, it's worth noting that both brands share a commitment to quality and luxury, so there may be some natural synergies to be explored. Overall, the departure of Michele and the appointment of De Sarno mark a significant shift for GUCCI. While there may be some uncertainty about the brand's future direction, it's clear that the company has made a strategic decision to bring in fresh talent to continue the legacy of one of the most iconic names in fashion.
Is your brand looking to keep an eye on competitors’ insights and track pricing strategies, the state of assortments, colors, and international strategies in real-time? Retviews, the AI-powered competitive intelligence platform has proven to be the perfect ally for today’s leading luxury brands in staying on top of competitors’ data. With the industry shifting to AI to carry out manual processes, you don’t want to miss out.
Use the Retviews platform to benchmark your offer against your competitors
